Introduction: why there's a problem with shaving today

The practice of shaving has evolved from a crude and often painful undertaking, to a fine art with an entire industry to cater for the needs of the modern shaver. I say this has done more harm than good. It’s created problems and misconceptions that shouldn’t exist. This article teaches one thing only: how to wet shave properly. It’s a three-part process: pre-shave, depilation, and aftershave. Whatever you think you know about shaving properly, you might do well to read this article anyway, because you’d be surprised how many men get the shaving process wrong. The process isn’t actually as long or as complex as the article suggests; all in all it would take a particularly self-indulgent shaver about fifteen minutes to get through in practice.

Let me just explain why I wrote this. Wet shaving is, rather like chivalry, a practice existing now only in hidden corners of the world, and everywhere else ailing in crude form. People have forgotten how to do it. The chief complaints are: They get cut; they suffer from “razorburn” (at which our grandfathers would have scoffed); the shave is not close enough. Why is this: because they use trendy but inferior, if convenient products; they spend too little time on the process, they are product-obsessed (I am put much more emphasis on method); and most of all, many men today just don’t use enough water when they shave. It’s as simple as that. The method I propose is not in anyway “revolutionary”, but it works so well.

The general rule for the gentleman’s facial hair is that he should have none. A gentleman’s face is always clean-shaven (unless you are Sean Connery). A clean shaven face enhances your facial features and knocks of the years; and apart from that, a lady prefers to make contact with a smooth face. I guess no time more so than in the morning, does the average man appear most like his Stone Age forebears: slouching form, the stale odour of an unwashed body, and the brutish shadow of morning growth. There’s something almost primeval about the shaving process – as though one’s daily ritual of facial depilation were an offering to the altar of evolution; a prayer to keep the brute at bay. Call me old fashioned, but I take this ritual very seriously. next>>

The pre-shave process: get it right

Pre-shave is a process not a product. It’s a thing unto-itself, not a prelude to the main event. Many people don’t realise how important it is (I personally would consider it the most important part of shaving). The damage caused by improper shaving can be permanent and undesirable, hastening the aging process and the deterioration of your face. If ever you wondered, wet shaving is far superior to dry shaving. There’s no need to ever ask the question again. The physics and the chemistry of shaving are optimally harmonized via the wet approach.

Of warm towels and water
Is the best time to shave before or after the shower? Answer is after the shower for two reasons. First, by showering after the shave, you wash out any aftershave products (to the smart Aleck who has just thought “I don’t use any”, you’re doubly foolish. Aftershave care is essential for your skin), leach valuable nutrients form your skin, and dry it out. The second reason is that a hot shower opens the pores on your face, and softens the beard (this is why when the barber shaves you, he wraps a warm towel around your face; this has the same effect as the warmth of a shower). I wouldn’t advise shaving in the shower; it’s wasteful and extremely dangerous. And it’s just not a very proper way of doing things.

Always douse your face in hot or very warm water before even looking at the blade. Hot water in shaving cleans the skin, removes dead skin cells and excess oil, stimulates shaving cream lather and opens the pores thereby creating a clean surface for the actual shaving process. Unless you happen to have an ape-like growth, shave in the evening; it saves you time the next morning, and allows your skin to rejuvenate and rest whilst you sleep. Contrary to typical practice, there is really no need to shave every single day unless you absolutely have to. Try to limit the amount of times you damage your face.

Keep it clean chaps
There is a reason why medics clean the area they are about to jab, before giving injections. It’s exactly the same reason why your face must be clean before you shave. A dirty face among other things is a cause for ingrown hairs, infections and rashes or “shaving bumps” (technically called pseudofolliculitis barbae). To prevent this, use a good face wash or exfoliator. Try and find one which is mildly disinfectant, or has tea tree or juniper oils. It’s usually a matter of pouring a dollop the size of a 2p coin onto your palm and applying it to a wet face, then rubbing it in a circular motion until it lathers, and then rinsing it off thoroughly with warm water.

Lavish warm water all over your face at this point, hydrating your skin and loading your beard with water. This process further helps to soften your facial hair in preparation for the blade (wet hair is 70% easier to cut than dry hair, and even more so when warm). After showering – by now the bathroom’s warm – prepare your face for shaving. A warm shaving environment ensures that the pores remain open and the beard may be dislodged thence with ease. Remember then: lots of hot water (never forget the water), clean face and soft beard. The water really is the secret. It builds up a kind of “film” over your face, which will enable the razor to glide more smoothly, and at once protect your skin and soften your beard considerably. next>>

Creams soaps or gels?

Thq quick asnwer is creams. When shaving, always keep in mind the fact that what you are doing is actually cutting several individual hairs. Creams and gels considerably reduce the immense friction between skin and blade. They help to lock in moisture and release oils. Most people underestimate the strength of these individual hairs, and thus do not pay enough attention to pre-shave preparation designed to prepare these stubborn hairs. Many men have contemplated the dilemma of whether to use shaving gel, cream or soap. The rule of thumb is that as much as possible avoid using “designer” shaving products. Despite their labels these mass-produced synthetic products are generally unjustifiably expensive and of inferior quality. Here are a few pros and cons of each:

• Shaving Cream: The main advantage of cream is that it retains and releases water well in comparison to soap. For a shaving cream you are looking for something smooth, fairly light and lipid based, that retains water well and has decent skin nutrition. Creams in my opinion, are the best. The ideal shaving cream will have a rich lather, by foamy rather than thick and creamy, and it will retains warmth and water throughout the shave

• Shaving Soap: These “soak” water well but they do not retain water as much and thus require constant loading. Furthermore, they cannot be used efficiently without a badger hair shaving brush. Most soaps have a strong fragrance, which can make shaving quite pleasant. I would not really recommend these (save a few exceptions) for the average beard, especially if you have dry skin.
  

• Shaving gel: Good shaving gels are sometimes more nutritious (for example, aloe based ones) than creams and soaps. Many say that they give a closer shave, but I don’t usually use these due to the fact that they tend to contain synthetic substances and alcohol, which cool the skin, stiffen the beard and close the pores. I also find the lather produced to be a little too thick, causing it to interfere with the actual shaving process.

So I think it’s clear that my judgement is made for creams. Finding the ideal cream, as with so much in shaving, is a matter of adjustment and experiment. But there are a few very superior products out there such as Proraso, and Truefitt and Hill creams, which I would recommend to anybody. next>>

Brushes

While not essential for an average shave, for a perfect wet shave, shaving brushes are de rigueur. In my mind, you are not shaving properly without one. The primary purpose of the shaving brush is to hydrate the cream and the beard. Skilful use of the shaving brush puts the water and lather in cooperative contact with the skin and beard. This protects the delicate facial skin, and, in preparation for shaving, builds up that earlier-mentioned film of water over the skin to be shaved, and locks in the moisture from there.

This “film of water” is the greatest secret to an exceedingly smooth shave (probably the closest you can get without drawing blood). Warm water more that anything else ensures shaving comfort. To think all these years you have suffered for want of this bounteously abundant commodity! Water allows the razor to glide seamlessly across the skin. The absence of the smooth surface created by a hydrated lather increases the likelihood of cuts and irritations. Furthermore, a shaving brush raises the beard hairs at an angle and this makes them easier to cut neatly with single strokes of the razor, and little damage to the skin.

To use a shaving brush, place a little hot water in a shaving mug or pot, and add a dollop of cream. Run warm water into the brush and shake off the excess then whisk the mixture using the moist shaving brush. Apply the cream to the face using vigorous circular movements of the brush. This isn’t a painting job; the action you’re aiming for is rather more like a polishing machine’s rotation. The shaving brush will bridge the difference between mediocrity and excellence. The best brushes are badger-hair brushes. Synthetic brushes don’t all hold water and cream as well as genuine badger ones. Though the quality of synthetic brands is improving, they aren’t as luxurious as badger brushes in my experience. Brummells of London supplies very good quality brushes. After applying the cream, let it sit in your beard a while as you prepare your razors and perhaps replenish your shaving water. next>>

Razors: Dual blade or duel blade?

Razors more than any other product exemplify the unnecessary cluttering of the shaving process today, with strange, exotic and unnecessary implements. Before hacking at your face with the nearest sharp-edged utensil, consider the quality of the razor. Only two rules really apply: sharp, weighted razors. Never use the same razor for two shaves. This is a precision business, and your steely hairs do wear away the cutting surface of a razor. Apart from those rules, there isn’t much you need to know about razors.

There is a great assortment of razors available on the market today. I’m suspicious of anything with more than three blades, and generally only just tolerant of most things with more than one! Why? Because on anything with more than two blades, the third (not to mention the fourth and fifth?!) blade is virtually redundant. I rather suspect the increasingly unwieldy number of blades that the shaving companies are gradually adding to their razors (more accurately called ‘arsenals’, because two blades is a razor, four or more is a weapon).

I actually still use a single bladed safety razor, not so different from what my grandfather might have used. These work as well, if not better than all the fancy malarkey that’s about these days. They are well-weighted, and, importantly, the blade is exposed on the entire cutting surface, rather than being contained in a cartridge. Extra blades don’t add “stability” or “control” or any of that nonsense. They are just there, and don’t do anything that a second shave doesn’t do just as well or better.

That said, I admit that my shaving routine may not be the same as everybody else’s, and that my above opinions are a matter of preference (albeit authoritative). So I reluctantly give my blessing to the multi-bladed monsters, so long as it is certain brands: Wilkinson Sword and Gillette make pretty solid razors. The razor handles are weighted sufficiently to give the right stroke force, and the fact that they have three blades makes a slight difference to the smoothness of the shave. The cartridges are lined with aloe and other such enriching substances, which does provide contribute to the smoothness of gliding surface upon which the steel swerve. next>>

The act of shaving

Shaving MUST be done in front of a clear mirror – possibly a magnifying one. As much as it may sound a commonsensical fact, when you are shaving you need to see what you are doing and monitor each stage of the process. A common fallacy holds that a close shave and a comfortable shave are mutually exclusive results. Not so! The rule of thumb when actually working the blade is to go with the grain or slightly across it, just never against it. Shaving against the grain may effect a smooth shave for a few hours, but once the hair begins to grow out again, it will grow out at an angle beneath the skin, and cause unsightly ingrown hairs. Having applied shaving cream, position your razor at a steep angle of roughly 45 degrees from the cheek, and shave downwards (or in which ever direction your hair grows). If you hold it too steep, you will cut yourself, too low and you will tear out your stubble instead of cutting it.

The best way to shave is to begin by broad, determined strokes, in order to cut the primary masses of hair. Begin on the cheek with least hair (allowing time for the thicker areas to soak up water), moving onto the next cheek, the moustache and then the chin and then the neck. The chin has the toughest hair, and requires more time to soak water, while the neck is extremely delicate and sensitive. Move onto the jaw (another very sensitive area). Rinse the razor after every couple of strokes, with warm water. Thus the preliminary shave is done.

The Secondary shave is necessary for a closer finish, and this is where the real finesse applies. Before the secondary shave, lavish your face once again with volumes of warm water and reapply a thinner layer of shaving cream. When shaving at this stage it is advisable to tilt the razor at a slightly steeper angle now, of, say, 60 degrees from the cheek – this requires great care - and whilst holding the skin taut with a finger from your free hand, begin to move the blade down in short, firm (but not forceful) strokes, avoid going over a single area more than twice. Remember to hold the razor firm and bring it down with a little weight. For the secondary shave, ensure that you move the razor at a slight diagonal t, but never against, the grain. By shaving diagonally to the first shave, you will be able to pick up the hair at an angle and sever is close to the follicle if it is lying flat against your face. Shaping sideburns is best done with an open cutthroat razor which I would recommend to be best left in the hands of the more experienced shaver. next>>

Aftershave

Just like the pre-shave, the aftershave is a process, not a product. The reason why aftershave treatment is so important is because when we shave, we remove as much hair as we do skin, so one can imagine what a punishing the skin receives. In addition, facial skin is very delicate. Aftershave is relatively simple in comparison to pre-shave. When you have shaved your face to your liking splash it for a full minute or so with copious amounts of cold water, throwing it liberally all over your face and pat your face dry. Cold water closes up the pores, and removes any traces of shaving cream left after shaving.

Now the application of aftershave itself has been a cause of debate in recent years. Much of this debate has centred on the problem of alcohol versus non-alcohol aftershaves. The main argument is that alcohol dries out your already battered skin, which at this time is in urgent need of nutrition and moisture. I say if your skin is sensitive do not use an alcohol one, but DO use an aloe or menthol based balm enriched with vitamins.

If your face is not so sensitive I advise alcohol for two reasons. First alcohol acts as a disinfectant if you have accidentally cut yourself killing germs and sealing the cuts. Secondly and importantly, it closes up the pores, and thus prevents the entry of dirt, which could cause razor burn. This is an essential step in the aftershave process. Unless you have skin of steel, never substitute cologne for aftershave. Once the alcohol based aftershave has dried, your skin will feel noticeable taut and dry. At this stage, I follow with a moisturizing balm of choice to soothe my fiery skin, and re-moisturise it. If you have shaved in the evening, then apply a mild aftershave lotion in the morning, to rejuvenate your battered face (apply the lotion after your evening shower if you shave in the morning). next>>

Conclusion

Shaving products have become more expensive, not necessarily better. When selecting shaving products, try to procure good, middle of the range products if you have a calculated budget (Gillette , The Real Shaving Company, and Nivea offer reasonably priced and effective product ranges), otherwise as much as possible purchase from small purveyors who are more expensive but their products are VASTLY superior to anything you will find in your local chemist. I promise you – the expense is FULLY justified. I highly recommend European purveyors (mainly British and German); their products are generally the finest in the world.

A smooth well shaven face is one of those signs of refinement that unequivocally separates the gentleman from the average man. I hope I have redeemed those ineffective shavers who previously accepted the axiomatic sophistry that shaving is by necessity painful, tedious and ineffective. Shaving need not be painful or tedious, and yes you can have comfort as well as closeness. Your face is the very first exhibit by which your character is judged, and the quality of your shave can make all the difference in how that exhibit is presented. home>>